Very berry yogurt cake

An as-you-like-it June gloom bake

I didn’t set out to devote a whole letter to yet another loaf cake. But this one—this tender, berry-streaked yogurt cake—insisted. Unassuming and obliging, this cake requires barely moderate effort, whilst also quietly transforming what might otherwise be considered waste: the forgotten half-finished tub of yoghurt edging towards its expiration date; the collapsing berries you swore would become jam; as well as a few pantry staples in need of purpose. And yet, from the combination of such simple ingredients, something special emerges.

Here in San Diego, June Gloom has set in—grey skies, heavy air, a sort of coastal melancholy that pervades the mornings. It sounds almost romantic. It’s not. It’s depressing. Maybe it’s just the weather, but I’ve been feeling slightly off balance recently, so not wanting to wallow, I did the only thing that’s ever reliably worked: I baked. The cake had to be simple, fruit-forward, and something I could make with ease. A small project to keep my hands busy and my mind free whilst the summer thunder rattled the windows and the June Gloom hung in the air.

You’ll notice a few different photos—that’s because I wanted to do my due diligence with this one. To the delight of my family and neighbors, I tested this cake every which way: raspberries and Rainier cherries folded into the batter, paired with a strawberry frosting; then a moodier version with blueberries, blackberries, and dark cherries, topped with a raspberry frosting for a brighter lift. I experimented with the extracts, too—one loaf made with ½ teaspoon each of vanilla and almond paste/extract for layered depth, and another with a full teaspoon of almond extract alone (my preferred flavor profile). I even baked a loaf, wrapped it tightly in cling film, and tucked it in the fridge for two days to test its moisture. Turns out, that trick adds even more character—the crumb stayed tender, the texture even softer. Though I’ll admit, I still prefer a slice warm from the oven.

The anatomy of a good sponge is deceptively simple. It begins with eggs, their weight dictating the precise balance of butter, sugar and flour - in other words, each of all four ingredients should weigh the same. The rest is up to you. The possibilities are limited only by the contents of your pantry: spices, extracts, essences, or mix-ins such as seasonal fruit, chocolate, or even fruit powders—each one transforming a single foundation recipe into something entirely new…entirely special.

As for this bake, it's a democratic cake; any seasonal berry will do—blueberries, blackberries, mulberries, raspberries, strawberries or cherries. Even the forgotten bag of mixed berries at the bottom of the freezer, a little frostbitten and clumped together—toss them in.

You could even turn it into an upside-down cake: scatter your chosen fruit with a little sugar and a knob of butter in the bottom of the cake tin, pour the batter over the top, and bake as usual. Once cooled slightly, invert and serve—the fruit will have turned soft and syrupy.

Adding yogurt to a sponge batter is a clever move—it brings moisture, a subtle tang that balances sweetness, and a tender crumb thanks to its acidity, which reacts with the leavening agents to give the cake lift and lightness. The yoghurt can be swapped - sour cream or crème fraîche, or you could leave it out entirely. For added flavor, try lemon zest, adjust the balance of extracts, or fold in chopped pistachios or slivered almonds—or leave it plain. This cake is wonderfully forgiving.

Maybe that’s the real virtue of this recipe; it requires so little effort , and yet the process results in a warm, golden cake that is more than the sum of its parts. Some days, that’s enough.

Serve with: fresh fruit atop a cloud of cream, softly whipped; a spoonful of crème fraîche, if you want something with a little bite; or a scoop of vanilla ice cream that will slowly surrender into the warm crumb. Truly, it doesn’t need much. The freeze-dried strawberry icing is unexpectedly sharp and wonderfully sweet.