The many lives of a madeleine

+ curd and glaze recipes

Proust needed seven volumes and 1.2 million words to process the memory of a madeleine dipped in tea—I just need my morning cappuccino. That ‘little scallop-shell of pastry, so richly sensual’, is best enjoyed fresh from the oven—warm, tender, and yielding effortlessly to the slightest touch. A few, dusted with icing sugar and dunked into a frothy cappuccino - where hot, bitter foam meets buttery crumb - make a compelling case for slowing down and indulging in a moment of nostalgia over a leisurely Sunday breakfast.

The batter comes together in moments, all in one bowl, and the baking time barely stretches beyond 15 minutes. But if patience (or ambition) prevails, the madeleine also serves as an excellent canvas for embellishment. A dip in 70% dark chocolate forms a crisp, bittersweet shell, while a spoonful of blood orange or passionfruit curd tucked inside transforms it from a simple breakfast treat into something decidedly dessert-worthy. And if you do have the time, allowing the batter to rest in the refrigerator for a day will only deepen its flavor and improve its texture.

Madeleine purists may scoff at the flavor additions, but even Proust— one suspects —might have been tempted by today’s offerings. Read on!

Reference: Proust, M. (1913). In Search of Lost Time. Volume 1: Swann's Way.

This is a rather long post, so feel free to view via the website or app if the email cuts out.

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Chocolate dipped, melogold & almond + blood orange and cardamom

As you know by now, it’s never enough for me to present just one version of a recipe —especially when a madeleine, with its crisp-edged, scalloped shell and tender crumb, is so wonderfully open to interpretation. Today, I give you a master recipe: a solid foundation from which many variations unfold, including those featuring tea, extracts/essences, citrus and spice. There are three curds for filling or dunking as well as three glaze options, but don’t let these suggestions limit your imagination - make the madeleines your own.

On creativity in the kitchen

When my mother taught me to cook, her instructions were never rigid. If I asked, Am I doing this right? or Does this taste how it should? she would reply, You tell me. Taste it and decide. Of course, there are recipes that require measuring ingredients with scientific precision, but equally, you can follow many recipes to the letter, and still learn nothing.

True confidence in the kitchen—instinctive cooking—comes not from blind obedience but from repetition, from committing the fundamentals to memory, from understanding how ingredients behave and how flavors pair and evolve. It’s about developing an internal compass, one that tells you when something feels right, tastes balanced and looks good.

I receive messages asking whether it’s okay to substitute one ingredient for another. Last week, I shared a recipe for a Valentine’s salami—no baking, just melting chocolate and folding in all sorts of tasty additions before shaping the mixture into a log. Within hours, my inbox was full of variations on the same question: What can I use instead of candied angelica? And while I love engaging with readers, what I really wanted to say was: Whatever delights you.

So much of life is dictated by obligation—rules, routines, the expectations of others. But in the kitchen, you are in command. Once you understand the structure of a recipe, you get to decide what happens next. The flavors you crave, the textures that excite you, the ingredients that bring you joy—these should be your guiding principles. So take this recipe, make it once, and then make it yours, again and again.

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Dark Chocolate Madeleines with Passionfruit Curd

Eye see you

Passion fruit and dark chocolate are such an underrated flavor pairing. They are a natural pair because their contrasting flavors create balance; the bright, tropical acidity of passion fruit cuts through the deep, bittersweet richness of dark chocolate, preventing it from feeling too heavy. Scientifically, this works because passion fruit is high in acids, particularly citric and malic acid, which enhance perception of sweetness and amplify the fruity complexity of the cocoa. Meanwhile, the fat in chocolate tempers the sharpness of the passion fruit, creating a rounded, harmonious flavor experience.

Dip a warm madeleine into passionfruit curd, or for a more decadent take, pipe the curd inside once they’ve cooled—each bite will burst with bittersweet richness.

Not only for cakes… this curd is heaven on toast and rice pudding

Blood Orange & Cardamom

Blood orange curd, with its deep berry-like tang, pairs beautifully with cardamom—a spice that lingers somewhere between citrus and eucalyptus. The spice adds a subtle warmth, intensifying the richness of the fruit while echoing the fragrant oils in the orange zest. Together, they create something both bold and balanced.

The drama!

For this madeleine, I’ve combined blood orange zest with freshly ground cardamom in the batter and then offered two further touches: a blood orange glaze and/or a hidden pocket of curd, piped into the center.

This delicious dainty combines the sharpness of fruit with the gentle warmth of spice—all wrapped in the tender crumb of a madeleine. Pair with a cup of earl grey tea.

Lemon, Rose, Brown Butter & White Chocolate

The sharp, floral brightness of lemon pairs beautifully with the nutty depth of brown butter, creating a madeleine of delicate complexity. A hint of rose water in the batter adds a whisper of old-world elegance, while the creamy sweetness of white or blonde chocolate crowns it all, balancing the flavors with a gentle richness. If the shell feels like too much effort, a simple dip in melted white chocolate is just as delightful.

Melogold & Almond Madeleines

In this version, I’ve simply added a few drops of almond extract and a little melogold zest in the batter and paired with a Melogold glaze.

Melogold is a pomelo-grapefruit hybrid with juicy, pale yellow flesh, offering a honeyed sweetness and refreshing brightness without the typical grapefruit bitterness. Grapefruit and almond are a natural pairing, both scientifically and sensorially. The bitterness of grapefruit, due to compounds such as naringin, is softened by the sweet, nutty richness of almonds, which contain benzaldehyde—the same aromatic compound that gives marzipan its depth. Almond also enhances citrus notes, much as it does when paired with oranges or apricots, while its natural fats help mellow grapefruit’s sharp acidity.

You can find Melogolds via Shrub if you're in the UK. In the US, check your local farmers' market—Californian residents, in particular, should have no trouble laying their hands on some truly delicious citrus at this time of year.

Bergamot & Earl Grey

Earl Grey’s distinctive character comes from bergamot, the fragrant citrus that lends the tea its signature floral brightness. Here, adding a teaspoon or two of the tea to the batter brings warmth and depth, while the added fresh bergamot zest enhances those citrusy, slightly bitter notes. The tea’s tannins gently temper the sweetness of the madeleine, while the bergamot infuses the batter with an aromatic lift. Together, they create a madeleine that feels both delicate and punchy—fragrant, buttery, and perfectly balanced.

Golden brown and delicious

Chocolate-dipped

If you’re dipping your madeleines in chocolate, the secret to a clean, glossy finish lies in coating the moulds themselves. Lightly wipe the moulds with a touch of neutral oil, then spoon in a little melted chocolate, gently press the cooled madeleines onto the chocolate and freeze for 5-10 minutes. Once cooled, the madeleines should release effortlessly—but if they cling, a gentle nudge with the tip of a knife will free them without compromising their perfect scalloped shape.

Preparation and timing

For a delightful weekend breakfast treat, prepare your madeleine batter on Thursday or Friday, store in an airtight container, and have it ready to bake first thing Saturday morning.

The method

I’ve tried and tested several methods for madeleines, in particular, the method of whisking the eggs and sugar in a stand mixer until light and frothy before gradually adding the flour and butter. Whilst this does aerate the mixture slightly, I didn’t find it made a noticeable difference to the final texture. During the process of testing I found that the approach below is far less work (one bowl!) and still gives you the light, tender crumb you’re after.

Classic madeleine recipe with variations, curds, and glazes

Makes 12-16 madeleines, depending on the size of your moulds