The July Edition

Berry Chantilly cake, cherry syrup, grilled veggies & dips

Welcome to the July edition of Seasonal, our yearlong celebration of the seasons. Today’s newsletter is full of in-season produce picks, summery flavor pairings, and a fresh menu of new recipes - think sky-high berry almond salted honey Chantilly cake, grilled vegetables with the most delicious dips, homemade cherry chocolate milk, and more. This edition is a little longer, so if your email cuts off, you can always read it in full on the website or app.

Have you been to the farmers’ market this week? You should go. It’s the perfect place to slip away from the noise and scramble of the world and remember what it feels like to really breathe again.

For cooks, this is go-time; July does not dawdle. These are the weeks when produce has reached peak ripeness, appearance and flavor. Market stalls groan under the weight of beans that snap with authority, berries so ripe they barely survive the walk home (please learn from me and do not wear a brand new white shirt to the market!), and zucchini and eggplant, practically begging for the heat of a grill. Such culinary abundance and opportunity is too fleeting to squander.

And speaking of the grill, let’s talk about what’s on the menu today. First, a platter of vegetables - courgettes, spring onion, aubergines, peppers, strawberries, peaches — edges charred until black, smoky and sweet, still warm as they land beside a bowl of caramelized shallot dip and a sweet and salty parmesan olive dipping oil.

Then, of course, there must be something sweet. July wouldn’t feel complete without a cake - something like a Victoria sponge, but unreservedly upgraded. Inspired by the legendary Whole Foods berry Chantilly cake, I developed my own version: a proper indulgent four-layer cake with pillowy sponges, a lush mixed berry–vanilla rose compote, and soft folds of salted honey–almond frosting. And to complete this confection? Berries in between each layer and piled high on top, gleaming in their own sun-fed juices. One bite, and you’re somewhere else entirely: a long, lazy summer afternoon lolling under the shade of a tree with a picnic arranged on a warm, soft blanket.

And finally (you’re going to love this), a homemade cherry syrup so deeply red, it’s almost black. The syrup is lovely splashed into fizzy water or stirred through iced coffee — or best of all, combined with homemade, iced chocolate milk - a nod to Black Forest gâteau, undone.

At this time of year, everything is at its peak — quick to spoil and begging to be eaten as you walk home from the market. Here’s what to look for, and a thought or two on what to do once you’ve arrived home with your bounteous haul and stained white shirt, grrr.

Stone fruit, every kind.

Each evening during July, I enjoy a bowl of cherries on ice - Rainier is my favorite. I have no idea why, but this snack seems to send me into the deepest, most peaceful sleep. Recently, I’ve also been making apricot and peach compote on repeat, to pair with cold rice pudding (I have a great recipe for that here) or my morning yogurt and granola bowl.

Cherry chocolate milk - a very refreshing July treat. Recipe at the bottom!

Figs

My favorite. Not far from our home there is a hotel with not one, but two fig trees in the chef’s garden. If, perchance, I am given the go-ahead to pick a few, you’ll likely see a recipe for fig leaf ice cream. For now, if I can exercise a little patience and a modicum of self-control - thereby leaving one or two uneaten figs in my fridge for the weekend - I will stuff them with a slither of blue cheese, wrap them in prosciutto, and gently fry them in a little olive oil. Truth be told, I have been known to add a drizzle of honey - feel free to follow suit. Few pleasures in life are greater than the combination of cheese and fruit.

Watermelons

Last summer, I created a dinner for Hampton Water and made a sorbet of tomato and watermelon, brightened with a hint of lime and basil. It was delicious — and the recipe couldn’t be simpler. You start by warming ¾ -1 cup of white sugar together with one cup of water in the microwave for 30-40 seconds. Stir and allow to cool. Cut the watermelon into wedges and remove the flesh then blend, together with the tomatoes and cooled syrup, until smooth. Add the juice of one lime then strain.

Chill the mixture in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, then pour into an ice cream maker. Add lime zest and chopped basil. When icy, transfer the churned sorbet to a freezer-safe container and freeze for three to four hours. Serve with strawberries, basil and edible flowers.

Another easy side dish that is on repetition in our kitchen is watermelon, feta and basil salad. I like to enjoy this with Mediterranean chicken kebabs, warm pita bread and hummus.

Fennel

I often serve a salad of fennel and celery as a side to grilled chicken or lamb meatballs. The contrast between the aromatic aniseedy flavor of the fennel and the slight bitterness of the celery are married with the addition of a very simple vinaigrette comprising: extra virgin olive oil, lemon, a little agave syrup for sweetness, salt and Dijon mustard. Also, if you find yourself grilling this week, have you considered adding finely chopped fennel to your coleslaw? It really does add a lovely complexity.

Zucchini

I’m currently developing a recipe for zucchini fritti with a spicy but slightly sweet aioli. While we wait, I suggest you make sautéed zucchini with Parmesan. Simply heat one/two tablespoons of olive oil then add a sliced shallot and cook over medium-low heat until the shallots turn slightly brown. This will probably take between 5-10 minutes. Then, add sliced zucchini, salt, pepper, a pinch of thyme and a little knob of butter. Cook for approx. 8-10 minutes. When nearly finished, sprinkle with freshly grated Parmesan and serve immediately. Alternatively, try grilling zucchini on the barbecue and serving it with your best olive oil, hazelnuts and a flurry of shaved Parmesan, and just a drizzle of honey. Simple, but completely irresistible.

Tomatoes

Plump and sun-warmed, the sweet, grassy aroma of tomatoes is for me, the essence of summer - the garden at its peak. Eat raw with a flick of salt or a trickle of good oil. Stack them with burrata and basil, or roast them low and slow until they collapse into jammy sweetness. Tomatoes don’t need much - just your appetite and a moment to savor summer. For a lovely (and very easy supper) try this tomato and corn vodka pasta made with homemade tomato paste.

Green Beans

Slim and sweet, snapping clean in your hands, green beans are versatile and nutritious. Blanch them briefly, then toss with mint and a curl of lemon zest, or braise gently with garlic and ripe tomatoes. This is the sort of side dish that finds its way onto toast when you think there’s nothing for supper. Serve warm or at room temperature together with burrata, crumbled feta or grated gruyere and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Courgettes & Blossoms

Courgettes are generous and undemanding. Slice thick rounds and grill until the edges catch, or shave them raw into ribbons and toss in olive oil and lemon before adding grated/finely sliced pecorino, nuts and edible flowers from the garden (you can also buy a good selection of edible flowers at Whole foods). If you can source the blossoms, stuff them with ricotta and herbs, dredge in the lightest batter, and fry until the petals turn crisp and golden.

Sweetcorn

Last week I wrote a guide on making the most of sweet corn — and I’d especially recommend the roasted corn-on-the-cob with candied cowboy butter. If anything tastes like summer it’s this.

Cherries

Glossy and dark, their sweetness edges towards wine if you leave them a day too long. Eat them cold from the fridge, scatter on to a soft sponge, or roast together with black pepper and balsamic vinegar for something unexpectedly grown-up. Keep reading for my very favorite flavor combination and my cherry syrup recipe.

Peaches & Apricots

Soft, yielding, ready to bruise. Allow their sweetness to meet heat: roast halved apricots with honey and thyme; slice warm or room temperature peaches into salads together with torn herbs and a splash of vinegar. In The Flavor Thesaurus, Niki Segnit reminds us that peaches are wonderful with tarragon — the aniseed note cutting through their floral richness.

Herbs

Mint, basil, dill, sorrel if you’re lucky. For a peppery bite scatter nasturtium flowers over salads. Still lingering, elderflowers are just begging to be steeped in cordials and syrups before they disappear for another year.

Blueberries and almonds

This is one of my favorite pairings - soft, jammy fruit balanced against the sweet, marzipan-like nuttiness of almonds is irresistible. You’ll see exactly why in today’s cake recipe: my Berry Almond Chantilly Cake, which uses almond extract in both the sponge and the cream. A little goes a long way. Recipe below!

Blackberries & Sage

Crush a handful of blackberries into a sharp vinaigrette with finely chopped sage, then spoon over grilled pork chops or a wedge of salty blue cheese. Alternatively, muddle blackberries and basil (or mint) into a simple syrup and top with gin and tonic for a garden drink at dusk.

Plums & Fennel Seed

Halve ripe plums, scatter with crushed fennel seeds and a dusting of brown sugar, then roast until the fruit softens and the juices turn jammy - spoon warm over thick Greek yoghurt or tuck into a rustic galette.

Dark Cherries & 70% Chocolate

There’s something quietly decadent about dark cherries dipped in proper dark chocolate — 70% or higher. The high cocoa content results in a clean snap that allows the fruit’s sweetness to shine through. I like to keep a plate of these beauties in the fridge on hot days: cold, glossy, almost too pretty to eat. Almost.

Cucumber & Lime Leaves

Try this - slice cucumbers paper-thin, toss together with a few bruised lime leaves, a squeeze of lime juice, a few teaspoons of sugar, and a dash of fish sauce for an impromptu pickle - sweet, sharp, and just funky enough to sit perfectly alongside grilled prawns or a bowl of jasmine rice. Better still, the same flavors muddled with gin (minus the fish sauce, obviously) and a splash of soda make a cocktail as bright and refreshing as the pickles themselves.

Raspberries & Pistachio

Tumble fresh raspberries over a scoop of pistachio ice cream, or fold chopped pistachios into whipped cream and dollop onto a raspberry pavlova for a flavor that conjures images of an old French patisserie.

Melon & Prosciutto with basil oil

Wrap sweet wedges of melon in whisper-thin prosciutto, then drizzle with peppery basil oil — a plate that feels like lunch on a Roman holiday. Or try a wonderfully retro dinner-party twist: serve melon granita in martini glasses and drape the prosciutto luxuriously over the top. Cold, salty, sweet.

Figs & walnuts

Classic, and for a reason. Split open ripe figs, pair with crumbles of salty blue cheese and a drizzle of honey, then scatter with walnuts. Eat piled onto toasted sourdough with a cold glass of wine.

Watermelon & Rosewater

For your next beach day out, try this - cube cold watermelon and toss with a few drops of rosewater, then top with crumbled feta and a scattering of nigella seeds. For really sweltering days, freeze chunks of watermelon and drizzle them with pomegranate juice - instant, icy heaven.

A moment for the cake…

Strawberries & Balsamic

When strawberries are at their ripest, I like to slice them and allow them to rest for a while together with a splash of good balsamic and a pinch of sugar — just enough to draw out their juices and turn them syrupy. Sometimes I spoon the whole lot over vanilla ice cream, but more often than not I eat them straight from the bowl with my fingers, savoring their aromatic fragrance until the last sweet, tart drop.

Peach & Chilli

Slice ripe peaches and toss with a squeeze of lime juice, a pinch of salt and a scattering of chilli powder/flakes for a juicy, sweet snack brightened with just enough heat.

Apricots & Lavender

There’s immense pleasure in halving apricots, drizzling them with honey, adding the faintest whisper of culinary lavender, then roasting until they slump and caramelize at the edges. Spoon them over thick yoghurt, place them onto cakes as a topping, or serve with a cloud of whipped cream as a stand-alone dessert.

Courgettes & Honey

Try thin ribbons of raw courgette dressed with olive oil, lemon zest and a swirl of runny honey. For added texture, scatter with toasted hazelnuts or almonds. A delicate balancing act - sweet, grassy, sharp.

This month, I asked a selection of talented chefs, cooks, and friends to share the ingredient they’re most excited about right now - and exactly how they’re cooking with it. Here’s what they’re loving in July… and keep reading for my recipes, including the intensely delicious berry, almond, and salted honey Chantilly cake, grilled veggies with dips, and cherry chocolate milk!