Happy March! Welcome to edition #3 of a 12-month series celebrating the seasons! Throughout this series I'll be highlighting my favorite seasonal produce and offering recipe, snack and cocktail suggestions.
As a child, I took seasonal cooking and eating for granted, marveling at my mother's ability to transform the simplest ingredients into deeply nuanced delights. To me, her techniques seemed more like magic. Take, for instance, the humble tomato: Mum would cut thick slices of- heirloom tomatoes, drizzle them with a little extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and then finish the dish with a pinch of salt and perhaps a leaf or two of basil. Each bite was heaven.
To be sure, Mum was - and still is - a resourceful and instinctive cook, but reflecting on those precious early experiences of food preparation, I realize the secret behind the flavors: we waited patiently for the ingredients to be in season! Naturally, without any pretension, my mother adhered to a food philosophy rooted in quality. Delicious ingredients, simply prepared. Let nature do the work.
On a regular basis, we bought what we needed, mindful of our budget, selecting only the freshest produce. Lots of color and distinctive flavors, all supplemented by occasional visits from Dan the Meat Man - a lovely individual who occasionally delivered organic meat to London from a farm in the West Country. Succulent pork and apple sausages were an affordable favorite, as well as small beef patties which took the edge off my parents’ unwillingness to buy fast food.
My mother understood intuitively, as all good cooks do, that the true essence of vegetables and fruits is revealed when they are in season.
When I first moved to the States, the overwhelming quantity and variety of products resulted in a tendency for convenience to take precedence. Perhaps this was inevitable. I was in my 20's and living in Los Angeles which seemed like the center and vortex of everything - or so I thought. Cooking was the last thing on my mind. The tiny ‘kitchen’ in my 350 sq foot studio apartment remained virtually untouched, and soon enough I succumbed to the allure of fast, overly-seasoned fare with uniform flavor profiles differing only in the relative proportions of fat, salt and sugar. The food was lifeless and left me feeling empty in more ways than one.
However, when homesickness suddenly materialized in powerful anxiety inducing technicolor, something interesting happened. I found myself looking for familiar seasonal ingredients at the market. I craved childhood favorites such as cucumber sandwiches generously slathered with creamy butter and for dessert, succulent peaches with cream. I might have been over 5000 miles away from family and friends, but being back in the kitchen made me feel close to home. For a little while, simple dishes associated with love, comfort and familiarity, became my anchor.
Everything has its season
Convenience, I believe, has become the silent thief of joy in the kitchen.
When one grows accustomed to the availability of tomatoes year-round, the anticipation and excitement of tomato season diminishes and becomes irrelevant. To have never known the sheer pleasure derived from indulging in perfectly ripe, in-season tomatoes, sweet as sugar and bursting with freshness after months of anticipation is a shame. Some things are worth waiting for.
Once upon a time, farmers’ markets and independently-owned shops were the lifeblood of any town or village - a place where everyone could buy what they needed, locally. When I was a kid, we used to go to the green grocer for vegetables, the butcher for meat and the fishmonger for the weekly catch. We knew all their names and they knew ours. It was a personal and joyful experience. We would often ask: “What’s good this week?’’ to which Carlos the Vegetable Man would proudly show any new seasonal produce - ripe ‘n ready and reasonably priced!
Of course, living in America, fast food, hyper-commercialization, year-round available produce and instant-everything is commonplace. There is also the hefty and important subject of equality and accessibility. With the daily cost of living rising, basic access to fresh, local and organic produce is impossible for some. This is a subject I’m currently researching as it deserves time and consideration. A huge impetus for monetizing this newsletter in the future, is that I want to donate a % of proceeds to a relevant organization, so, if anyone knows of any organizations that are doing great work in this field, don’t hesitate to comment! I’ve got a spreadsheet going on the subject, because, well by now, you know I love lists!
Spring is nearly here, and there is hope on the horizon. If you are thinking about cooking and eating more seasonally, but don’t know where to start, why not focus on one or two ingredients that you really enjoy and that suit your individual budget? Also, look at what is growing locally and then take time to visit your nearest farmers’ market. For instance, arugula is particularly appetizing right now, as is asparagus. So, perhaps plan to use both in a side salad drizzled with a white wine vinaigrette as an accompaniment to a main course, or simply add feta for a quick, energizing lunch.
Right! Let’s get into what you might start seeing at your local farmers’ market, plus recipe/flavor pairing suggestions!
Seasonal Produce
Asparagus - A real indication that winter is very nearly over. Why not try a quick and easy asparagus risotto? Sauté finely chopped onions and garlic in olive oil, then add Arborio rice and cook until translucent. Gradually add hot vegetable broth, stirring continuously, until the rice is creamy, then fold in blanched asparagus spears, mascarpone and parmesan cheese before serving.
Artichoke - Add lemon halves to a large pan of salted water, bring to the boil then add the artichokes. Cook for 40-45 minutes. Meanwhile, dice some butter and set aside whilst you reduce white wine in a hot pan. Once slightly thickened, reduce heat and whisk in the butter, some grated Parmesan, and lemon juice. Lemon water finger bowls at the ready, serve on a platter garnished with lemon wedges.
Guests may or may not be familiar with the traditional way of eating artichokes. Depending on how well you know your guests, either explain the process or casually lead by example - pulling off the leaves, dipping them in sauce before discarding and moving on to enjoy the heart once the choke has been removed. The BBC has a great recipe here.
Avocado - For breakfast I've been enjoying grilled avocados with a little chili crunch and scrambled eggs on the side. To grill an avocado, start by preheating your grill to medium-high heat. Cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Brush the cut sides with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the avocado halves cut side down on the grill and cook for approx. 2-3 minutes, until grill marks appear and the avocado flesh is slightly softened. Carefully remove from the grill and serve as desired.
Pomelo - Pomelo has a sweet, floral and tangy flavor reminiscent of a mild grapefruit. You’ve heard of brûléed or caramelized grapefruit, why not try caramelizing slices of pomelo and add a few sprigs of mint on the side. Of course, you might need to invest in a kitchen blowtorch, but it is a purchase you will use more than you think! Link here.
Rhubarb - You can typically find rhubarb at the farmers' market during the spring months. A favorite way of eating it is stewed with rice pudding. Try my recipe for the creamiest rice pudding you will ever have.
Nicola Lambrhubarb 101 is a particularly useful resource.
Tarragon - I love tarragon in just about anything, but my favorite method of using tarragon is for a lemon, mascarpone spatchcock chicken - the full recipe is here if you’re interested!
Green beans - Nothing says spring like green beans. I love to make a simple side dish of garlicky green beans. First, I blanch the green beans in boiling water for 2-3 minutes until tender, then drain and briefly steam-dry. Next, lightly fry garlic in oil until pale golden then toss with the beans, season, and serve.
Peas - Just because spring is on the horizon doesn’t mean soup season is over. I love pea and mint soup and deliberately keep the cooking process as simple as possible so that the time between wishing-for and actually eating is as minimal as possible.
First, I sauté chopped onions and a little garlic in butter until soft, then add the peas and vegetable broth and simmer for 10 -12 minutes. I then blend until smooth, stir in chopped fresh mint, and serve hot with a yogurt and dill dressing and perhaps a scattering of fried crumbled bacon.
Watercress - The end of March marks the beginning of spring and the arrival of an abundant crop of watercress. Watercress thrives in cooler temperatures and grows vigorously at this time of year, developing a vibrant flavor profile making it particularly delicious for salads, soups and sandwiches.
Sorrel - Sorrel is a leafy green herb, renowned for imparting a pleasant tangy, slightly sour taste to dishes. If you can procure it, try creating a compound butter of chopped sorrel and chives. Serve this with a pan-fried filet of fish and you’ll have yourself a simple, yet refined restaurant-worthy supper.
Parsnip - I recently dined with Jeune et Jolie in Carlsbad, and I was served parsnip as a dessert. To my husband’s dismay, I set about deconstructing the dish and discovered that the chef had cut paper-thin sheets of parsnips and lightly caramelized them with what tasted like brown sugar. It was absolutely incredible and I am determined to develop a copycat recipe! For a more simple dish, try my parsnip tarte tatin here.
Wild garlic - Wild garlic, also known as ramsons or bear's garlic, is a wild plant commonly found in woodlands and damp areas across Europe and parts of North America. It has long leaves that resemble those of lily of the valley and produces small delicate white flowers in spring. Wild garlic has a very distinctive aroma and a subtle, mild garlic flavor. It is often foraged in the early spring months and If you can acquire it, you can use it for pesto, soup, compound butter, risotto or even an omelet. Can you tell, I love wild garlic?!
Rosie Birkett has a lovely recipe for Chicken Braised With Wild Garlic here.
Guava - My current favorite fruit! There is no better combination, in my opinion, than guava and cheese. Try making guava and cheese pastries - NYT cooking have a good recipe here.
Look out for
Ramps - Ramps have become rather trendy over the last few years! Renowned for their robust, garlicky onion taste, ramps are a variety of wild alliums akin to spring onions and leeks. Found predominantly in wooded areas across the Northeast, South, and Midwest of America, they emerge between April - June, depending on the spring weather conditions. Foraging for ramps is a cherished springtime pursuit, often shrouded in extreme secrecy as enthusiasts closely guard their favorite ramp spots. Don’t blame em’. If you find them at a farmers’ market, buy them immediately before the local chefs get their hands on them!
Fiddleheads - Fiddleheads are the young, coiled fronds of certain ferns, harvested for consumption as a seasonal delicacy. They are named for their resemblance to the head of a fiddle, but I think they look rather prehistoric! Fiddleheads have a rather unique flavor, often described as a combination of asparagus, spinach, and green beans (yum) and are commonly enjoyed in various dishes such as salads, stir-fries and soups.
White asparagus - White asparagus is a variety of asparagus that is grown underground or covered with soil to prevent photosynthesis, resulting in its beautiful pale color. It has a milder flavor and more tender texture compared to green variety. Keep it simple and enjoy white asparagus with a lovely homemade hollandaise sauce or vinaigrette.
Spring things to look forward to in no particular order:
Longer days
Spring walks and picnics
Easter eggs
Tomato sandwiches
Not having to consider how many layers to wear when setting out on a walk.
Vitamin D!
Strawberries, sugar and balsamic vinegar (trust me!)
Radishes with french butter
Good to know
Recently I discovered the incredible Speciality Produce in downtown San Diego. They mainly supply produce to local restaurants, but anyone can visit. If you’re in town, set aside a good hour or two to peruse. Inspiration awaits.
Useful kitchen things
For those of you who have arrived from Tiktok, you’ll be aware that I’ve been ingredient prepping. Here are some containers and items that help me prep for the week!
P.S. I’m preparing a whole newsletter dedicated to my home café and ingredient prep - do not fret!
Who to follow
I follow many, many incredible chefs, writers and creators and whilst admiring and considering their distinctive achievements, I often ask myself the following question: How can I become THAT good? These are some people who are bringing me daily joy and inspiration:
Benjamina Ebuehi Simply put, every recipe is a hit! Brown sugar rhubarb pavlova & coconut shortbread biscuits?! Yup…sign me up!
Nicola Lamb’s Kitchen Projects offers a unique and always in-depth exploration of recipe development. Nicola doesn't just provide a list of ingredients and a one-dimensional set of instructions, instead, she meticulously explains every detail, patiently leading you through the entire process.
Chloe Walsh How does Garlicky kale and spinach soup or rosemary and lentil ragu sound? Good right!? My fellow Brit-in-California specializes in vegetable-forward recipes inspired by the seasons and regularly hosts fabulous supper clubs. Can we cook together IRL please?
Carmen in the Garden My father, a man deeply rooted in the earth, was a gardener at the Queen’s Garden, at Kew Palace. Nurturing beautiful flowers and herbs with a gentle touch and sharing whispered secrets with the soil, he passed as much knowledge onto me as he could. With this in mind, as you can imagine, when I discovered Carmen’s Tiktok, I was utterly delighted. Her passion and respect for nature is inspiring. If you are thinking of starting a culinary garden - take this as a sign!
Meredith Hayden Meredith is like the totally fabulous, very gifted and utterly hilarious sister you never had. She crafts delightful recipes ideal for hosting your next dinner party. I'm definitely making her spicy rigatoni for dinner tonight.
Clare de Boer Chef, writer and all round badass. Am I planning to spend the rest of the weekend indoors, whipping up chewy ginger cake, fatty clam sauce and summer lasagna? Absolutely!
CarolineI’ve found myself daydreaming about Money Bread Focaccia ever since Caroline posted the recipe! So, if eccentric focaccia flavors and a peek behind the scenes into the daily life of a chef catering for literally hundreds of people piques your interest, then be sure to follow along.
Alana Cookbook club gatherings, genius snack recipes (count me in for charred scallion + ricotta toast)), and inspiring hosting tips, I always look to Alana for my dinner party inspiration.
That’s it for this week dear reader! See you next Sunday.
Sarah x
Thanks for the lovely mention. X