Home culinary school chronicles

+ a scotch egg recipe and condiment recommendations

There comes a time in life when you become achingly aware of your own inadequacies. This happened to me recently right in the middle of one of the most exquisite mouthfuls of food I've ever had. 

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A lesson in excellence at The French Laundry in Yountville, Napa. 

After meeting Chef de Cuisine, David Breeden, to discuss some creative projects, I was invited, along with my husband, to have something to eat. I was wholly unprepared for the experience that awaited us. 

I dream of this menu often

During the sixth or seventh course (it became impossible to keep track), I found myself deeply moved in the way some might feel during a symphony or when admiring an old oil painting. The precision and perfection disrupted and provoked me in an unfamiliar way. 

An immaculate kitchen, exquisite cuisine, and genuinely warm service - it was all achingly perfect. Despite the technical brilliance of the food, however, it was the sense of being nurtured that enhanced the whole experience. Indeed, I felt as comfortable as though I was eating my Mother's cooking surrounded by family. Laudably, there is zero pretension at The French Laundry. Where there is truly good food, there is always a sense of home. 

One month after this meal I quit my job. 

My culinary journey began at the age of five, when I became my mother's 'little sous chef,' assisting with the preparation for endless dinner parties and family celebrations. Pitting dates, frying bacon, peeling apples, grinding spices, adding a little of this, a pinch of that, it was during this process that I learnt the art of instinctive cooking.

Up until a few years ago I had never considered a career in food. It’s true, I have always been intrigued by the unyielding commitment and red-hot intensity of professional chefs, but as a young person with a proclivity for over-sensitivity and creative distraction, instead of culinary school, my preference focused on the allures of art college. Anyway, apart from a brief stint making egg and bacon sandwiches for passing cyclists whilst helping out at a sleepy country cafe, I had never stepped foot in a professional kitchen. 

I am truly a home cook.

A home cook who’s been cooking for over 20 years. 

A home cook who at 34 had the best meal of her life and then quit her job to cook and write.

Now is the time - I need to find a way to push myself or I’ll remain where I am.

Of course, I could, in theory, go to culinary school, but currently my husband and I live between England and the States, and it just isn’t practical either financially or geographically.

And so to my idea - and this involves you, dear reader.

What if I put myself through a kind of home culinary school using Le Guide Culinaire by Escoffier?

If you are unfamiliar, Escoffier is the chef of all chefs. The godfather. Your culinary idols’, idol. A pioneer of classic French cookery. 

Every chef has a copy of Le Guide Culinaire. It’s a lifelong reference manual for cooks.

Unlike most modern cookbooks there are no pictures or lengthy instructions. Certainly no hand-holding. The recipes are not ‘straight jackets’, rather, Escoffier speaks to you with respect and authority. His concise instructions make you feel capable of simultaneously learning new skills, whilst honoring traditional methods as well as honing your own creative intuition as a cook. 

‘’The greatest dishes are very simple.’’ (Escoffier)

According to Escoffier, simplicity does not rule out beauty. This is the philosophy of someone I can get behind. 

The Plan

So - and I'm not sure if this will pique anyone's interest - in an effort to stay accountable and share the knowledge I will inevitably gain during this journey, why not record all my discoveries right here in this newsletter?

The mistakes, the triumphs, the flavor adventures. A sort of series. From sauces to meat preparation and desserts - The Escoffier Way.

I think I’m up for the challenge and I’m sure you don’t have time to rifle through this mammoth textbook, but perhaps weekly or monthly installments of my home school culinary adventures and creative takes on classic French recipes will interest you.

Marie-Antoine Carême, leading French chef of the early 19th century, once said:

In matters of cookery there are not a number of principles there is only one and that is to satisfy the one you are serving.

This philosophy provided me with food for thought. I’ve always somehow felt that the shadow of internal discord has challenged my sense of direction. Unexplored paths lay ahead, yet remained obscure and dimly lit. I have often found myself in a place of unrest, but now, I am very sure that I want to cook and serve.

Would documenting this journey serve you? Please comment below if you would like to see me start this series.

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’Nduja scotch eggs with black garlic caramel sauce 

It’s Sunday, you didn’t think I would forget to provide you with a delicious recipe did you?

Here we have scotch eggs with a creative twist. Obviously, not fine French cuisine, but for those in the UK who are lighting bonfires and fireworks for November 5th, this is one of the most satisfying comfort foods, especially for this time of year.

For this recipe the juicy sausage meat is laden with spices and ’nduja then wrapped around a soft-boiled Burford brown egg, which when cut open oozes a jammy amber colored yolk. The outside of the scotch egg is coated in flour, beaten egg and panko crumbs then, unapologetically, deep fried until it reaches a dark golden brown color.

Inspired by the restaurant Levan, I created a black garlic caramel sauce in place of a more traditional chutney. The caramel is bitter, sweet, and deeply nuanced. The black garlic is an unusual addition, and is reminiscent, at least to my palette, of strong balsamic vinegar. To be sure the caramel isn’t for everyone, but a healthy forkful of piping hot scotch egg with all its savoriness and spice, enthusiastically dunked into the warm garlic caramel, well I challenge you to find a more pleasurable bite. If the idea of mixing garlic and sugar upsets you, go ahead and pair with a spicy chutney. Enjoy!

Ingredients

2 tbsps ’Nduja Paste (add more if you prefer spicy) 

400g sausage meat

1 tsp chopped dried sage

1 tsp dried thyme 

½-1 tsp chilli powder

½ tsp smoked paprika

Chopped parsley (optional but wonderful)

5 eggs (save 1 egg for the coating) 

100g tbsp plain flour

100g Panko breadcrumbs

Vegetable oil to deep fry 

Method

In a large bowl combine the sausage meat, ’Nduja, chopped herbs, spices and salt. Set aside in the refrigerator.

Prepare three medium bowls - fill one with flour (season with a little salt if you wish), one with a whisked egg and one with panko breadcrumbs. Set aside.

Boil water in a heavy bottom saucepan. Add the eggs, boil for 5-6 mins then remove from the heat and place in a bowl of iced water. Leave for 5-10 minutes to completely cool before peeling the shells under running water. Dry the eggs on a paper towel then gently coat with flour and set aside on a flat board. 

Prepare four, 6 - 8” squares of baking parchment. Divide the meat into 4 equal balls and place one ball on each square before flattening into a disc. Now place an egg in the middle of each disc, then use the parchment paper to help mold the sausage meat around the egg.

Next, roll the scotch egg in the lightly seasoned flour, followed by the egg mixture and finally the breadcrumbs, until evenly coated.

To cook the scotch eggs, heat the oil in a heavy bottom saucepan. 

Now, turning every minute or so, fry the scotch eggs one by one until they are a deep golden-brown color. This will take approx. 6 to 8 minutes - I found the sweet spot to be at approx. 6 mins 30 seconds. 

Tip: to test if the oil is hot enough, place a small piece of bread into the oil. If it sizzles and turns golden after 10 seconds, it’s ready! Watch the oil like a hawk. Reduce or turn off the heat intermittently if you think it is too hot.

Serve with garlic caramel sauce or a spicy chutney.

Black Garlic Caramel Sauce

Ingredients

150g granulated sugar

120ml single cream

3-4 cloves of black garlic, roughly chopped

60g salted butter  

½ tsp vanilla extract or paste 

Method

Melt the butter in a saucepan over low-medium heat, then add the sugar, garlic and cream. 

Gently whisk intermittently for 5-6 minutes until the sauce thickens. Keeping the saucepan on the stove, turn off the heat, add the vanilla and stir for another minute. Pour the sauce into a heat proof  jar or bowl. Leave at room temperature until ready to serve with the scotch eggs.

If the sauce hardens you can warm it up gently for 15-20 seconds in the microwave. 

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Recommendations

Let’s talk condiments. Are you as enthusiastic as I am about snacks, sauces and condiments? I hope so, because I’m considering starting another series.

Last weekend I made a trip to Panzer's Delicatessen, the wonderful grocery store in North London. It is heaven for gourmands and will particularly excite condiment enthusiasts like myself. For now I have a few stellar recommendations.

Honey Mustard Pommery® (Moutarde Au Miel)

I don’t much like honey mustard. But this mustard is pure heaven. I could eat it by the spoonful and never get bored. It’s perfectly balanced - sweet, warm and tangy. Particularly good - and bear with me on this - with chocolate rye bread (I got mine from Ole & Steen). Like secret lovers, mustard and chocolate are a dynamite combination. The heat of the mustard makes chocolate more chocolatey. If you don’t believe me try it for yourself.

The two hot sauces featured below are addictive. Who knew that Chimac’s Sriracha and Caramel would be such a genius combination - but it is! Also White Masu’s Peanut Rāyu is deeply nuanced and comforting. Both are fantastic on just about anything, but I recommend slathering them on rice, pasta or even peanut butter on toast. If you feel like getting funky, try a spoonful or two on vanilla ice cream or fluffy American-style pancakes.

That’s it for this Sunday’s newsletter. Let me know if you would be interested in following my home culinary school journey - The Escoffier Way. Also, does a snack and condiment series sound good to you? Your feedback at this stage is invaluable. Hope you’re having a wonderful weekend! Happy cooking and I look forward to reading your comments below.