Hello friends. Before we explore what to cook and eat in February, I wanted to update you on an exciting project I’ve been quietly working on for the last few months. I officially have a blog - agoodtable.com. Hurrah! So, whenever you seek culinary inspiration, feel free to explore.
January invariably seems like a sluggish month, demanding a concerted effort to regroup. After a festive season of indulgence, we are expected to recalibrate and establish new resolutions and fresh beginnings featuring routines based on fasting regimes, strenuous exercise and the renunciation of alcohol. Although not adverse to following the principle of moderation in all things, my body and mind instinctively resist the zealous demands of traditional new year self-improvement programs.
In January, my inclination is to defer the moment of rising, preferring the sense of hibernation that a warm bed and cozy blanket confer. Squaring up to the inevitable chill of a January morning - post-Christmas I am still usually in the UK - my first defense is to sip a fruity herbal tea from a chunky mug which I still cradle long after the last dregs have disappeared. After that, apart from maintaining my daily walk and stretching routine, I can be found surrounded by my mother’s recipe books gathering as much information and as many ideas as possible before my imminent return to the US. Although this particular form of exercise fills my mind with inspiration, by late morning, I crave nothing more than a steaming bowl of hearty chicken soup with winter vegetables.
Within days, however, all my efforts are focused on preparing to negotiate the transition between the UK and US, with all the dread and excitement that accompanies this cyclical occurrence. Between packing and fighting premature feelings of homesickness, my mind drifts to thoughts of reorganizing my kitchen cupboards, restocking our diminutive flower border as well as establishing a modest herb garden, all in readiness for the coming year.
And so to February
No sooner are we back home and February has arrived. It might still seem like an endless winter, but hope is on the horizon. The greatest joy of February lies in the anticipated arrival of spring. Although snowdrops can appear as early as January in the UK, by February they are evident in abundance in parks, gardens and woodland, along with yellow primroses, crocuses and daffodils. In California, the California Poppy makes its dramatic appearance along with purple verbena, camellias and a multitude of blossoms. This emergence of growth and color serves as a reminder that spring is on its way.
Suddenly, I want to start moving my body more, venture outside, get on with planning my garden as well as planting seeds. I want to bring the outside in, and get to work creating flower arrangements and vegetable-focussed dishes. In other words, I feel ready to grow.
I plan to prioritize numerous joyful activities this month and I thought you might want to do the same. My love of lists is endless, so I’ve made checklists, recipe suggestions and produce guides. Let’s start with produce.
Produce to buy at the market or use from the garden
Citrus fruits (e.g., kumquats, oranges, grapefruits, lemons)
Here in California, we have a petite kumquat tree on our patio that is positively bursting with fruit. It feels a little mean, but I am thinking of harvesting the fruit to make kumquat fruit bars with kumquat curd and a granola base. Amazingly, given the number of times I made them during the Christmas holidays, I plan to make not only lemon, but also clementine possets. I just don’t seem to get bored of either, and they are so easy and quick to make and then freeze, that’s it’s worth having them ready and waiting not only for unexpected guests, but also those moments when you crave a little treat.
That being said, let’s not restrict citrus fruits solely to dessert menus, but rather include them in as many meals as we can at this time of year. If you’re struggling with mid-week meals, I have a suggestion: set aside a few moments to make a salad of fennel, radicchio and mixed citrus (blood orange, sumo oranges etc) paired with a bright lemon and mustard vinaigrette. Make the vinaigrette base by simply mixing 3 parts oil to 1 part acid, then add your preferred accent flavors. I’ll be using lemon and extra virgin olive oil to which I will add either garlic or finely chopped shallots, a little dijon mustard, a drizzle of honey and finally salt and pepper.
Forced Rhubarb
Forced rhubarb refers to the technique of cultivating rhubarb in complete darkness. This process encourages the early growth of tender, sweet rhubarb stalks, often before the outdoor growing season has begun. I planned to make a lemon curd rice pudding then crown it with roasted rhubarb and syrup, but after searching nearly every grocery store here in San Diego, I’ve had no luck! So, if you’re in the UK right now, get it while you can!
For the lemon curd, combine 170g caster sugar with lemon zest. Then whisk four beaten eggs with lemon juice. Once thoroughly combined, pour the mixture over the sugar and zest, before adding small cubes of butter. Place the bowl over simmering water and then whisk until the curd thickens to a custard-like texture. This will take approximately 15 minutes. Full recipe here.
To make the rhubarb syrup (also great for cocktails) cut 3-4 stalks of rhubarb into 1-inch pieces before placing them in a small saucepan together with 1 cup of water. Simmer for 25 minutes then strain the liquid - setting the rhubarb to one side. Pour the liquid back into the pot and add another cup of sugar. Bring to a boil for 5 minutes, then cool.
Brussels sprouts
By now you know my love runs deep for Brussels sprouts. Not over-boiled sprouts with their powerful sulfurous smell, but rather, raw, finely shredded sprouts that come paired with a wonderful homemade caesar dressing adorned with anchovy crouton crumbs. See here for the recipe.
Parsnips
This week I will be making a parsnip and carrot tarte Tatin. For this recipe you will require a 9-inch cast-iron pan.
Start by unrolling a sheet of cold, puff pastry then place the pan on top. Allowing an extra margin of approx 2” round the edge, trim the pasty, saving any excess for later. Place the pastry circle on a tray lined with parchment paper and chill in the fridge. Next, quarter or halve parsnips and carrots lengthwise then par- boil them for 5 minutes before draining.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Melt butter In a cast iron pan over medium-low heat, then add sugar, spices and flavorings (I like to use a tablespoon or so of pomegranate molasses, light brown sugar, smoked paprika and sumac) then stir in parboiled parsnips and carrots, allowing them to color for a minute or two. After removing the pan from the stove, place the pastry circle over the vegetables, tucking in the edges. Bake the tarte Tatin in the middle of the oven for 25-35 minutes or until golden. After resting for 4-5 minutes, place a serving dish/plate over the pan and, using oven gloves, hold the two together and flip. Voilà - a dinner party favorite!
Kale
I have indulged in cavolo nero pasta a few more times than I would like to admit in recent weeks. This easy recipe effortlessly incorporates greens and I love the dish's hearty, rustic and robust qualities.
Leeks
For an easy supper I love to make a dish that features butter beans and braised brothy leeks. For the leeks, pre-reheat your oven to 385°F. Then, after trimming and washing the leeks char them in a cast iron pan (optional if time is short) before arranging them in an ovenproof dish.
Next, simmer dry white wine in a saucepan for a minute or two, add broth, season, and pour over the leeks. Fleck with butter before covering the dish with foil and roasting for 20-25 minutes. Then, uncover the foil and cook the leeks for an additional 10-15 minutes until they are soft and the broth has reduced slightly. When finished, sprinkle on some ground pepper then scatter grated parmesan on top. Serve straight from the cast iron skillet, and mop up the delicious broth with a warm crusty baguette. A very elegant supper indeed.
Full recipes for all the above will be available throughout this week on agoodtable.com
Seasonal flavor and ingredient pairings
Blood orange & chocolate - a perfectly harmonious contrast of sweet and tart. Why not make a chocolate mousse (recipe here) and combine it with a simple homemade sorbet? For the blood orange sorbet, combine 1 cup water and 2/3 cup sugar in a saucepan, cooking until the sugar dissolves, which should take approximately 5 minutes. Remove the sugar syrup from the heat and mix in 2 cups of blood orange juice. Refrigerate the juice mixture for approx. 1 hour until thoroughly chilled, then stir in 1 tablespoon of your chosen alcohol. Proceed to churn the mixture in an ice-cream machine until smooth and frozen. Alternatively, if, like me, you're lacking an ice-cream machine, cool the mixture, transfer to a freezer-proof container, and freeze until firm, whisking every hour with a fork to break up the ice crystals.
Cabbage & chili - cabbage is a vegetable that can seem a little drab if unadorned. So, try quartering a medium cabbage and char in a cast iron skillet for a few minutes until suitably blackened. Then, transfer to a baking tray and cook for 30 or so minutes in a 385°F.temp oven. When ready, drizzle with crunchy chili oil. Better still, add some hot honey whilst you’re at it. Before you know it, your dour greens will have become sexy cabbage!
Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes) & butter. Try this for an elegant yet earthy appetizer: pan fried Jerusalem artichokes paired with a sage compound butter topped with chives or parsley.
Cauliflower & ginger - just like cabbage, cauliflower needs a little help in the flavor department. Here’s an easy idea for a light lunch or side dish. In a large skillet, heat oil and sauté chili, garlic and ginger until fragrant, then add turmeric and cayenne before pan frying for another minute. Next, incorporate the roughly chopped cauliflower pieces and vegetable broth before seasoning with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer until tender - approx.15 minutes.
Winter squash and maple syrup - a naturally good combination; the pairing of squash and maple syrup is especially delicious due to the harmonious blend of squash's earthy sweetness together with the rich, deeply nuanced notes of maple syrup.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Peel and cube the butternut squash then toss it in olive oil and garlic before seasoning with salt and pepper. Then, place the cubes of butternut squash on a baking sheet and roast until golden brown and tender - approx. 25 to 35 minutes. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, drizzle with maple syrup.
Midweek Joy Checklist
If, like me, your weeks are currently whizzing by in a blur of activity you may wish to correct that by including moments of joy to ease the pressure.
Here are some ideas:
Tog up, grab a hot cup of tea and start the day by taking a walk at sunrise.
Make stretching a priority. Repeat after me: I will elevate my feet for at least 10 minutes after cooking!
Buy flowers and spend quality time creating an arrangement that will brighten your week.
Plant a mini herb garden. Fortunately the weather is reasonable in winter here in California, but there’s nothing stopping you having an inside window ledge version if you live in colder climes.
Less social media, more books.
Weekend checklist
Since stepping away from my job in September, the boundaries between work and leisure have become somewhat blurred. Here are a few delightful activities I'm planning to include in my weekend schedule for February.
Visit my local farmers’ market and support local businesses.
Make batches of chicken and vegetable stock for a variety of soups, and casseroles.
Make easy homemade mayonnaise. Even the good store-bought stuff tastes greasy and bland.
Read Diana Henry’s Roast Figs, sugar snow: food to warm the soul.
Visit Wayfarer bread bakery in La Jolla - they bake the most incredible kumquat pastries.
Go golfing!
Go on a mini road trip (road trip = road trip snacks, and road trip snacks are the best!)
Prioritize reading and learning - this means more studying for home culinary school (catch up on my adventures here).
The Recipe
Sexy charred cabbage with soy honey butter on a bed of whipped tofu
Ingredients
Soy Honey butter
115g unsalted butter, cubed and chilled
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
100g hot honey
1 tsp vinegar (white or rice vinegar)
50ml soy sauce
1 tsp chili crunch, or chili flakes (optional)
Cabbage
1 medium head savoy cabbage, cut into 4-6 wedges
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
Salt
Method
The cabbage
In a medium-large pan on medium heat, char the cabbage in hot oil for 3-5 minutes on one side only.
Cook in the oven at 400°F.for 25-35 mins or until tender.
Honey butter soy sauce
Mix all the ingredients, except the butter and chili oil, in a small bowl. Add this to a small pan on low-medium heat and cook for 5 mins or until the sauce is slightly reduced and has a thicker consistency. During the last minute of cooking add the chili crunch or flakes.
Reduce the heat a little and gradually add a few cubes of butter at a time, whisking continuously. (Adding the cold butter slowly will help emulsify the sauce with the fat.)
To serve
Serve the cabbage on a bed of whipped tofu. Full recipe here.
That’s all for today folks. Do let me know what recipes peak your interest, and I will meet you back here next Sunday!
Whipped tofu...you're a genius. Protein packed alternative to indulgent whipped ricotta/cottage cheese
Amazing article! Never heard of sexy cabbage, but it looks delicious!