Custard eggs and the loveliest hotel in England
A recipe & recommendation
Warning: hotel egg dishes can spoil the start to a day. When they are bad, they are very, very bad, but when they are good, they are wonderful. In the underworld of mega-hotel buffets, you can expect rubbery, pale scrambled eggs that defy the laws of decency. Stewing away in catering-sized metal trays, barely warmed by a feeble flame, they languish in a pool of lukewarm salmonella-friendly watery residue that, very quickly, starts to emit a noxious sulphurous aroma. Watch out! One bite, and it will feel as though you are chewing on a salty rubber band.
On the other hand, when hotels get eggs right, the rest of the day seems to follow. In fact, memories of delicious breakfast eggs can outlive other highlights of an enjoyable holiday. A few years ago, I enjoyed the best eggs of my life whilst staying in a small Parisian B&B, the name of which I can’t recall - see! Made to order, garnished with finely chopped parsley and a kiss of white pepper, the eggs were exceptionally creamy, like liquid velvet. Similar to the way a piece of dark chocolate melts on your tongue, the custard-like eggs seemed to vanish in an instance.
If, like me, you now find yourself craving eggs, fear not; in today’s newsletter, I will be sharing an easy recipe, for custard-y French-style hotel eggs that are so indulgent, they are best reserved for a special occasion. I will also be writing about a wonderful hotel I visited in Somerset, UK. No rubbery eggs in sight.
Travel through the lens of food
When I started this newsletter in September, I promised you recommendations for restaurants and hotels. Covering travel through the lens of food is something I've always wanted to write about, but for some reason it has also induced a certain sense of ambivalence, if not, nervousness. After all, everyone's tastes, budgets and geographical locations are different. Also, I must admit, sometimes, appreciation of a specific establishment can lead to a certain degree of possessive secrecy. Nevertheless, I do want to credit and honor the hard work and creative output of individuals and establishments in the culinary and hospitality world, so let’s bite the bullet and get started!
But before we do, let’s go over a few ground rules, because who doesn’t love a list?!
I will only write about the places I have either stayed in or eaten at, that I personally consider to be special. I am not a critic.
Nietzsche once wrote: "If you stare into the abyss, the abyss stares back at you". The internet already has a loud cacophony of negative voices, and I have no intention of contributing to the noise.
I will try to include details that are inspiring or useful.
Not all restaurants or hotels I write about will be accessible to everyone, for a number of reasons, but that doesn’t stop us discovering and sharing original, eccentric and useful information/details. Expect interviews with resident chefs, recipe ideas based on innovative menus and perhaps even inspiration from interior design concepts.
I will write about a range of establishments, not just the fancy places.
Now, I‘m not saying I won’t write about beautifully appointed establishments complete with suit-wearing waiters, but there will be a good eclectic mix. Think mom and pop owned grocery stores that host Friday night pop-ups, fabulous local bakeries and underground dive bars.
I will acknowledge whether I have been paid or gifted for any aspect of a particular visit.
Cue - a ‘wave’ of eye rolls. How can I write fairly when there is money involved? How can you possibly trust my recommendation for a trip that has been gifted? Both valid points. The simple fact is, ever since I resigned from my job in September, I determined that I would never again work for, or with, a company, brand or people that I don’t genuinely respect. The same can be said for this enterprise. I simply won’t work, stay at, or write about any establishment that doesn’t align with my values.
Let’s begin.
The Newt in Somerset- the loveliest hotel in England.
Imagine you have an achingly cool, eccentric aunt, who is culinary-school trained, has exquisite taste in interiors as well as a seriously impressive wine collection. She also happens to own a country estate complete with a Beezantium and Roman villa - among other delights to which she has invited you for a weekend of relaxation and good (no, really good) food.
That is what staying at the Newt in Somerset feels like. More family country house, than hotel.
The Newt surprised me. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but perhaps something along the lines of an exclusive members-only clubhouse. You know, the sort of establishment where the staff look perpetually sullen and the small plates menu consists of 5 different variations of soggy flatbreads drenched in tepid herb oil. How wrong could I be?!
Nestled in the bucolic landscape of Somerset, England, The Newt celebrates Somerset's terroir, with menus that serve as a testament to the rich diversity of local flavors. From garden fresh vegetables to locally sourced meat and artisanal cheeses, each dish at The Newt paints a vivid portrait of Somerset's culinary identity.
The Food
Fresh and seasonal. How refreshing to taste food where the seasonings and sauces serve to enhance the natural flavors of the vegetables or meat, rather than mask it. Interestingly, in the Garden Cafe, you order a vegetable dish as your main course with a side of meat! Genius! I loved the naturalness of it all. No pretense, no fluff.
In the Botanical Rooms, the chefs worked diligently and respectfully alongside one another in a super clean, yet enviably beautiful kitchen. As a hotel guest, these details can be easy to overlook, but they do, in my opinion, speak volumes about the integrity of the chefs as well as the quality of respectful leadership. There was no shouting, no rushing; each chef, focussed on the task at hand. The result - elegant plates of West Country fare that reflect a creative and knowledgeable use of natural ingredients.
Some examples of dishes on the menu in the Garden Cafe and Botanical Rooms include: salt baked celeriac with pear and hazelnut, Tamworth pork loin in cyder & mustard sauce as well as Hadspen House apple pie with salted caramel and mascarpone ice cream (very delicious).
Breakfast was included in our stay, so, as a treat, I ordered the pain au chocolat. To my surprise, a golden, fluffy, crispy, wonderfully laminated (still warm) pastry arrived at the table (see above). It was absolutely filled with chocolate and ranked as one of the best pain au chocolats I have ever savored in my life. Of course, I couldn’t admit that until I had a second, just to be sure. Yup, the best.
The people
The staff are immediately friendly and welcoming, making the transition from hectic home life to relaxing rural idyll, a restorative experience. Individual members of the team are not only attentive, polite and knowledgeable, but also seem to really care not only about the environment in which the hotel nestles, but also the atmosphere within the hotel. Notably, everyone has incredible things to say about the owners. This respect for the proprietors (Karen Roos and her husband, Koos Bekker) resonates with genuine admiration stemming from pride in working for individuals committed to a philosophy that transcends beyond just making a buck. I befriended a new chef during our first night’s dinner at The Botanical Rooms. She had moved all the way from South Africa to work at The Newt, and was deeply impressed and touched by the way the owners had made it their priority to check on her wellbeing, and make sure she had everything she needed.
Make it at home
As if a Roman villa, Beezantium, farm shop, cyder bar and spa weren’t enough, best of all The Newt in Somerset have their very own Gelateria. There, I discovered not only an array of delicious ice creams, but also deep fried croissant pieces tossed in cinnamon sugar drizzled with a sticky toffee sauce (see above). How could I resist? I also spotted some delicious apple curd and asked for a dollop! Heavenly. So heavenly, I just had to recreate the dish at home.
For more info on staying at The Newt in Somerset or joining as a member for day trips and fun events, visit their website here!
Mini croissants with spiced toffee sauce à la The Newt
For the mini croissants, I used store bought puff pastry then cut the sheets into small triangles before rolling them into croissant shapes. I then deep fried the pastry until golden and, whilst still warm, tossed the mini croissants in cinnamon and nutmeg sugar. See my video here!
The toffee sauce, however, is where the magic happens!
Ingredients
250ml double cream
75g butter, cubed
100g light brown sugar
1 tsp sea salt
Pinch or two of spice (incl. any of the following: cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, cardamom & allspice)
Method
Place the cream, butter and sugar in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir gently until the butter has melted and the sugar dissolved, then increase the heat slightly.
Stir until the sauce bubbles and turns a toffee color.
Add salt and spice to taste. Serve warm.
Extra serving suggestion
When I’m feeling indulgent, I mix a teaspoon of this toffee sauce in my morning cappuccino. Delish.
Custard-y hotel eggs, aka the best eggs you’ll ever have!
Don’t be alarmed by cream and butter, this isn’t an egg dish for everyday, rather a weekend treat, or perhaps something to cook your lover for Valentine's Day alongside pain perdu and caramelized pineapple.
The Recipe
Custard eggs
Ingredients
5 large eggs, beaten
60g butter (I used salted, but unsalted will do)
50ml heavy cream
White pepper
Flaky salt
Chives, for garnish
Method
Add the beaten eggs and butter to a small-medium saucepan then place it over low heat. Whisk gently. Once the butter has melted add the cream, little by little. Whisk constantly, until the eggs slowly thicken to a custardy consistency - 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat, season with pepper and a little flaky salt, and serve immediately with a scattering of chopped chives.
That’s all for this Sunday’s Recipes & More. I am currently in the process of plotting many new recipes and projects for the new year. Plus, I have an exciting announcement and Home Culinary School Chronicles are returning soon!
Sarah xoxo
I now want to go to the Newt purely for that pain au choc. Heavenly!