Crispy potato salad with a caper, cornichon & dill dressing
a recipe for homesickness and tribute to my grandmother
While traditional potato salads have their charm, a duck fat-roasted crispy potato salad, dressed with an unctuous sauce of capers, dill, mustard, chili flakes and cornichons, takes delightfulness to a whole new level. This recipe is a remedy for homesickness, and also serves as a tribute to my grandmother—a wonderful woman who has always delighted in seeing her family savor a plate of delicious food.
Right now, I’m in California, staring blankly out of my window. The sky is blue, the land is sun-drenched and the trees are bare. Following an 11 hour flight, I'm a world away from home.
I’m thinking about my 95 year old grandmother. I visited her two days ago to say goodbye. There's a childhood photo of me on her bedside table.
‘’How do you make your famous gravy again Grandma?” I asked, pretending to forget.
“A little of this, and a little of that’’ she quietly replied, as she always does, with a twinkle in her eye.
She is strong but I know she is also profoundly tired.
I stroke her cheek, gently brushing her thick, snow-white hair. She confides that she's ready to “be with the Lord”. Nodding, I suggest, "Maybe you could stay with us just a little while longer?"
I ask if she is in any pain. She is not. I sit beside her bed and reminisce. I remind her of the bacon butty sandwiches she used to make me for lunch when I was a child and recount the delicious thick homemade chips drenched in more salt and vinegar than I was ever allowed at home. And what about those roast dinners, with crispy potatoes, carrots and turnip, and the fluffiest Yorkshire puddings? She watches me intently and smiles.
I remember one summer Grandma took me on a coach trip to Brighton. It was swelteringly hot so we indulged in milk ice lollies and had fish and chips for lunch with tons of tartar sauce and ketchup. On the way home we listened to old jazz songs until I fell asleep on her shoulder.
Those days feel like a distant memory. She's much smaller now, nestled in bed beneath a knitted blanket, drifting off to sleep with a gentle sigh. I cup her cheek in my hand and say goodbye.
Homesickness - a remedy
A hot tear rolling down my cheek brings me back to where I am now. There are suitcases everywhere, reminding me of my rootlessness.
The pangs of homesickness grip me fiercely. I feel so terribly guilty. Although my husband’s visa was about to expire, I still question my decision to leave; perhaps I should have stayed with her? My father argues that Grandma would encourage me to keep moving, to keep progressing. Yet, my heart remains divided.
True homesickness is a loss that has nowhere to go, a type of emotional purgatory. In these instances, when hopelessness threatens to overwhelm, the kitchen offers an escape as the comforting, meditative rituals restore a sense of peace. In every slow turn of the spoon there is solace.
Today’s recipe is something my grandmother would have absolutely loved: crispy potatoes roasted in duck fat then smothered in a caper and dill dressing. It is a dish that is both comforting and restorative. I can’t help imagine that this combination is greatly needed by many of us right now.
The method - a multi-generational approach
“The oil must be hot…”, Dad insisted, ‘‘and don’t forget to include that in your newsletter!’ Yes chef!
Indeed, mastering the art of achieving the crunchiest yet fluffiest golden-brown potatoes lies entirely in the method, and it was this method that my Grandmother taught my father, who in turn, imparted the knowledge to me.
As you follow the recipe below, you will discover that the secret lies in fluffy potatoes, hot duck fat and plenty of basting.
A delicious suggestion
Of course, once you have cooked your crispy potatoes to golden-brown perfection you could stop right there and enjoy them straight from the roasting tin. However, it wouldn’t be a potato salad without the sauce!
Just before serving, I like to drizzle a few tablespoons of honey onto the crispy potatoes to create a subtle sweet and salty contrast. I then toss half of these in the dressing. Why half you ask? I'm a texture enthusiast. The combination of extra crunchy potatoes and those adorned in the dressing results in the perfect bite. This contrast also looks rather pretty on the plate.
To finish, I finely chop raw shallots and pan fry capers for the perfect salad topping.
Grandma would love this, and so, I hope, will you.
The recipe
Crispy potato salad
3.5 lbs medium-large potatoes (e.g. Maris Piper), cut into halves
1-2 tsp salt
180g duck fat (alternatives - olive oil, sunflower oil or lard)
1 head garlic
2 tbsp honey (for drizzling when cooked)
Caper and dill dressing
230g mayonnaise
1 tbsp whole grain or dijon mustard
2 tsp white wine vinegar
100g pickles/cornichons, finely chopped
1 tbsp of capers
1-2 tsp dried chili flakes
1 shallot, finely sliced
25g cup parsley, finely chopped
25g cup dill, finely chopped
1 garlic cloves, minced
Salt and pepper, to taste
Crispy capers
50g capers
2 tbsp olive oil
Potatoes
Preheat the oven to 200C fan.
Prepare the potatoes, place them in a saucepan over medium-high heat, and then boil until they are slightly fluffy on the outside - approx. 12-14 minutes.
Place the duck fat in a roasting tin and put this in the oven for 5 minutes to preheat. Then, remove the tin and place it on the stove over low heat (this helps the oil stay hot) before adding the potatoes followed by a head of garlic. Turn the potatoes to coat and add a pinch of salt.
Place the tin back into the oven for 15 minutes then remove and carefully turn the potatoes in the hot fat again. At 15 min intervals repeat the basting process until the potatoes appear golden-brown and crispy.
Overall, this process will probably take between 30-45 mins but if, depending on your oven, the potatoes aren’t ready, increase the cooking time in increments of 5 mins until you consider that your potatoes are sufficiently crispy.
Dressing
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix. Set aside.
Crispy Capers
Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over low-medium heat. Meanwhile, pat the capers dry before adding them to the pan. Cook for 5 minutes or until crispy.
Serve
Drizzle all the potatoes with a little honey. Remove half the potatoes and place them in a medium bowl then add the caper and dill salad dressing. Toss the potatoes to coat.
Arrange the honey-coated potatoes on a large serving platter then top with the caper and dill dressing coated potatoes. This creates a fantastic textural contrast/extra crunch.
Garnish with capers, shallots and any extra toppings such as chili flakes.
Serve immediately.
This made me think of my grandmother and all the delicious food she use to make me. Very beautifully written and the recipe I will soon try. Thank you.