Celebrating citrus
Recipes galore + an interview with the founders of Shrub
The arrival of citrus is more than a seasonal change—it’s a shift in spirit, a spark of brightness cutting through winter’s lingering gloom.
For this week’s newsletter, I’ve unapologetically indulged my sweet tooth with citrus-laden desserts—some perfect for slow, weekend projects (pistachio and lemon choux au craquelin), others pared back and effortlessly simple (pomelo melogold and pink grapefruit jelly with yoghurt panna cotta). And because, regrettably, we can’t exist on sugar alone, I’ve included no-nonsense lunch and dinner ideas. These include a radicchio, burrata, toasted hazelnut and pomegranate vinaigrette salad with citrus taking center stage, as well as a few component recipes to inspire your own creations: lemon curd, candied kumquats, sugared lemons, pistachio crème pâtissière and Ballymaloe Desserts inspired pistachio and bergamot zest Langues De Chat.
I also had the pleasure of chatting with the founders of Shrub, about their remarkable collaboration with the Todolí Citrus Foundation—a partnership that celebrates the wild diversity of this fruit in ways you’ve likely never tasted.
Finally, because I’m thrilled about the community we’re building here, we’re launching our first Cook Club for paid subscribers. Keep reading, it’s a good one.
This is a rather long post, so if your email cuts out, you can view it in full on the website or app.
Monday, 4:30 a.m. That hushed, fleeting hour when the world holds its breath. With the sky still dark and infinite, edged with only the faintest trace of blue, there is only one thing that could pull me from the cocoon of my warm bed: the arrival of my citrus delivery.
Crates of fruit, hoisted unceremoniously onto the counter, spill their bounty across every surface—a riot of color and texture, almost theatrical in its vibrancy. In one bowl, the fingers of a Buddha’s hand stretch skyward, intricate and otherworldly, the bright yellow skin catching the soft overhead light. Nearby, Nour clementines gleam like tiny suns, their glossy peels a luminous blaze of deep orange. Bergamots, with their green-gold skins etched in uneven ridges, resemble ancient cartographer’s maps, whilst pomelos, with their ample, glowing curves reflect the first hints of dawn.
I pause mid-unpacking. Breathing deeply, I take in the heady layers of fragrance: the sweet warmth of mandarins, the sharp pepper of bergamots and the bracing note of lemons. The scents rise sharp and clean, layered like the work of a quiet hand in a perfumer’s atelier. This is citrus at its peak: vibrant, ephemeral.
Sleepily, I get started on a pot of coffee and resume unpacking. Smaller treasures dot the scene—kumquats with their polished, golden peels huddle in cheerful clusters, their brightness a playful counterpoint to the deep russet hues of pink finger limes. Inside those spiky little fruits lie jewel-like vesicles, bursting with sharp intensity, their texture resembling tiny, caviar-shaped pearls.
We begin with a weekend project: Pistachio and Lemon Choux au Craquelin. This is a multi-step recipe that requires a little forethought, but I assure you that the return on investment is guaranteed. And besides, once you learn how to make choux, you never forget. There’s something almost alchemical about the transformation, as humble dough becomes golden, airy puffs that rise perfectly - or so we hope - in the oven.
Layers of flavor
tangy vanilla lemon curd
pistachio pastry cream
pistachio creme diplomat
lemon zest mascarpone cream
grapefruit and pomelo jelly
sugared lemon peel
These little pastries are a true labor of love.
And so to the Pomelo Melogold and pink grapefruit jelly with lime leaf yogurt panna cotta. In California, each year, around this time, we find ourselves surrounded with citrus trees laden with fruit.
In some areas, pomelo trees line the roads, and it’s not uncommon to see people pull over to gather the fallen fruit that litters the verge. If you’re not familiar, pomelos are one of the largest members of the citrus fruit family, with thick, spongy skin and a gentle sweetness that stands in stark contrast to the sharp bitterness of grapefruit. While grapefruit is tart and acidic, pomelos offer a softer, more floral flavor. The Melogold is a hybrid of pomelo and grapefruit, blending the best of both fruits.
For the jelly I've combined both freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice and Pomelo Melogold juice for a lovely balance.
Inspired by the desserts at Spring restaurant in London and the produce-forward approach that Chef Skye Gyngell favors, this Pomelo Melogold and pink grapefruit jelly with lime leaf greek yoghurt panna cotta is pared back, refined, and deliberately focused on the natural flavor of its ingredients. When the produce is this good, it’s always best to let nature do the work.
To elevate these desserts and provide a little something to nibble on after dinner, I’ve added candied kumquats and sugared lemon zest.
And, of course, for the perfect coffee accompaniment, there are pistachio and bergamot zest Langues de Chat - a delicate and crisp biscuit.
Over the all-too-brief Christmas break, I found myself reflecting on how we could deepen our sense of connection as a growing community. To be honest, the fact that we are a community and a community that is growing, is a truly humbling experience which still fills me with a sense of surprised delight and gratitude. I love receiving your messages, especially the ones filled with photos of your creations, and that’s what led to the concept of a seasonal Cook Club, based on the idea of sharing this wealth of experience with one another.
Each month, we’ll explore a theme inspired by the best produce of the season. This month, it’s all about citrus. Over the course of the month, we’ll swap photos of the dishes we create, explore ideas, share tips and celebrate the citrus harvest.
For paid subscribers (hello!), you’re invited to share your creations in the paid subscriber chat. This month’s prompt: Either create a citrus-inspired multi-layered dessert (more than two elements), or a savory citrus infused one-pan wonder. That way we will have a selection of main and dessert courses that could be paired when planning a two-course meal. If you’re a free subscriber, consider upgrading to join in!
Today, I’m delighted to share an interview with Harry, co-founder of Shrub. We discussed how Shrub is redefining access to high-quality, seasonal produce, their inspiring connection with the Todoli Citrus Foundation and some of Harry’s favorite spots to eat in London. Along the way, Harry shared his thoughts on the importance of seasonal eating, his favorite ingredients of the moment, and how Shrub continues to bridge the gap between small farms and chefs.
Tell us a bit about Shrub! What’s its origin story, and how do you connect with the producers you work with?
Shrub started in September 2020, mid-pandemic. Sam and I felt that chefs didn’t have access directly to the farm gate, and likewise, these small organic, high-quality farms didn’t have access to chefs' kitchens. So we set about fixing that in the simplest way possible!
Most of our farming network comes through word of mouth and the organic farming network, but we often go on the hunt for producers. For example, we’re short on gooseberries every year, so we’re actively searching for a farm to supply us! But producers also often come to us, especially new starters.
What are your top three favorite seasonal products right now?
I’m particularly excited about bergamot! This citrus fruit is incredibly special to have at this time of year and is currently our only non-UK product. Bergamots are intoxicating fruits. We’re also in love with “Lemonade Lemons,” which have a perfect balance of acidity and sweetness with generous juice. One lemon is enough for a cocktail. Bit of white rum? Yes, please.
In the UK, we’re not quite in the full ‘hunger’ gap yet, so we still have superb carrots, Jerusalem artichokes and celeriac. The recent frost will have enhanced their flavor as they convert starches into sugars to develop their own anti-freeze.
What popular ingredients or produce are chefs ordering for restaurants this month, especially in London?
Of course, the citrus. But a real hero ingredient of the season is Brussels sprout tops. They’re like a huge, sprouty flower, and their leaves are incredibly versatile, savory, and flavorful. We’re also incredibly lucky to work with a Kentish forced rhubarb grower. It’s 35 miles from London, so it’s super local and uniquely British.
Have you noticed a recent shift toward seasonal eating? Are diners and home cooks embracing it, or does it remain chef-driven? Any tips for those looking to eat more seasonally?
Yes, we have. Many of the farms we work with run their own box schemes or are CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture), driven by local demand. Restaurants and influential figures play a big part too, and this culture is being solidified. As a restaurant, you’ll only be taken seriously if you’re using serious suppliers, and you’ll only attract decent staff if you take sourcing seriously. It’s great to see the fundamentals being given the reverence they deserve.
For advice: if you’re based in Britain, always look for British flags in the supermarket and check the origin. Try your best to buy British (or locally wherever you are based). Be creative. You don’t need fresh tomatoes all year or asparagus from Peru! Let’s reduce our appetite for these imports, and the markets will stop bringing them in. Support shops that genuinely source locally and scrutinize what’s local and in season. London has some superb farmers markets and produce shops like Trudes, The Giddy Grocer, Tuck Shop, and La Fromagerie.
What’s your favorite dinner spot at the moment, and what are you ordering?
It would be commercial suicide to have a favorite! However, recently, we’ve eaten at the Marksman in East London—epic pies. Apricity in Mayfair serves the best food-waste sourdough crackers with a wasted dip made from vegetable trimmings into a kind of hummus. SO good. Great coffee from Burnt Restaurant, pastries from Quince, Hearth and Erics. A real favorite dish is the tripe at Mountain—had it three times, and it only gets better.
I’d love to hear more about how your relationship with Todoli began. Also, I’m curious—what are some of your favorite citrus varieties? I found the Vanilla Lemon particularly special!
Toklas restaurant was the pioneer of Todoli Citrus in the UK. The owners of both establishments are old friends and incredibly inspirational people—art curators, restaurateurs, farmers, and more—but not wholesalers!
So, we put our name in the hat, and with a big lemon-shaped hole in UK seasonality, it was a fortuitous relationship to establish. We now make regular trips to Valencia to learn about the seasons and the harvest, taste what’s new and special, and this month, we’re taking 25 of London’s best chefs to Valencia to immerse them in how special and important the Todoli Citrus Foundation is.
Our favorites? Valencia (Navel) Oranges are so classic, generous, and the epitome of what an orange should be. Common clementines are anything but common—they have a spiced tropical-ness and are almost thirst-quenching when you bite into them. Keraji Mandarins - a Japanese variety - have a green coriander seed hint when early in the season, developing into sweeter, classic mandarins as they ripen. Citrons, with their entirely edible piths, are so fun and new to the UK. Introducing these kinds of products to the UK market brings out chefs’ creativity and excitement—it all starts on the farm.
Better eat a little dinner before dessert, so for balance, here are a few savory recipes before we get into the many sweet citrus-inspired creations.
Radicchio, fennel and citrus salad on a bed of burrata
I know salad might not be the first thing that comes to mind during January, but after all the autumn stews and soups, I’m craving something lighter. Enter our bitter leaf salad: radicchio, rainbow radish and shaved fennel are tossed in a tangy pomegranate molasses vinaigrette, placed on a bed of burrata and kissed with chopped toasted hazelnuts. The salad comes together very quickly and makes for a lovely lunch or side to a lemon pepper roast chicken.
Ingredients
1 head radicchio, roughly torn
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