A very special place: Auberge du Soleil
A beautiful stay, local stops, and a guest recipe from Executive Pastry Chef Paul Lemieux
Something shifts when you leave home. Step outside your zipcode, your routine, the rhythm of daily life, and the world begins to reassemble itself. Colors sharpen. Familiar flavors seem more nuanced. Suddenly you start to notice: the scent of sun-warmed peaches, the hush of unfamiliar streets, the texture of terracotta tiles under bare feet.
For me, travel is about surrendering to the unknown: getting lost on purpose; meals stumbled upon by chance; conversations that begin with a question and end in friendship.
This brand new travel section of A Good Table Newsletter is a way of holding on to that sense of wonder. It doesn’t represent a definitive checklist, rather a quiet tuning-in to somewhere else. Yes, there will be recommendations on places to go — hotels, vineyards, markets, meals worth crossing oceans for. But more than that, there will be the people who make those places matter: chefs, growers, and keepers of land and story.
I first visited Northern California in the summer of 2023 - an accidental vacation that, to put it mildly, changed everything. There was a long, delicious string of serendipitous events and perfect timing that culminated in having tea with my culinary icon, Chef Thomas Keller, enjoying one of the most extraordinary meals of my life, and not long after I returned home, finding the courage to resign from my joy-sucking job to cook (and write) full time. Best decision I’ve ever made.
I didn’t expect Napa to knock me sideways. But it did. And ever since, some small part of my heart has been wandering its sun-soaked vineyards. A return was overdue.
Fortuitous timing, then, when last month I found myself chatting with the Auberge du Soleil team about their Rosé All May celebration — a month-long homage to pink wine and good food. An invitation to stay landed in my inbox. And yet, despite the dreamy prospect of a weekend away, I found myself hesitating.
Nostalgia can be tricky. It has a way of making places seem more vivid than they ever really were. What if Northern California fell flat — the past gleaming brighter than the present? I decided to find out and set off, with my husband, on a road trip to Napa. After a ten-hour drive from San Diego we arrived, breathless with anticipation. We were not disappointed. Late spring. Liquid gold spilling across the valley. The air thick with jasmine. Vine leaves cracking gently underfoot.
It was just as we’d left it. Maybe even better.
Auberge du Soleil had been on my travel bucket list for years — one of those quietly insistent places that lives in the back of your mind, patiently waiting for the right time. Tucked into the hills of Rutherford, in the heart of Napa Valley, the resort feels as though it has been gently poured into the landscape alongside olive trees, lavender, and sun-warmed stone that give way to long, drowsy views across vineyards bathed in dappled sunlight. Every detail feels quiet and certain, as though it’s always been exactly where it belongs.
The trip happened to align with my birthday, and as anyone who knows me will vouch, I become a little twitchy as the occasion approaches. I don’t know what it is! The pressure to celebrate? Creeping existential dread? It's a lot. But turns out, add sunlight and a few glasses of really good rosé, and suddenly my annual existential crisis morphed into something that felt a lot like calm, positive, reflective growth... Funny, that.
As for the place - there was beauty, of course. But more than that, there was rhythm. Terraced guest rooms with fireplaces and a plush sofas. A spa that smells like eucalyptus and citrus peels. Little paths winding through sculpture gardens. Mornings that start with homemade raspberry jam, delicious pastries and good, strong coffee. Afternoons that end with rosé, peach-colored skies, and a kind of hush you don’t notice until you’ve been away from it for too long.
As for the food? The team let me poke around, and what I found was a kitchen perfectly in tune with the seasons. Food that listens first, then speaks. Dishes that arrive with the quiet confidence of something made with restraint and reverence. The three-course prix fixe lunch— each course thoughtfully paired with a select rosé—is a particularly lovely way to celebrate a special occasion, especially in the calm elegance of The Restaurant. The crimson-red rhubarb dessert (see below)—honey sponge cake with fromage blanc cardamom cream and shortbread cookies—paired with Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut, is a true showstopper.
And speaking of sweets - I had the pleasure of spending time with Executive Pastry Chef Paul Lemieux, whose culinary expertise shines through in a truly stunning dessert menu that celebrates both the season and local ingredients. You’ll be glad to know Chef Paul generously shared a guest recipe for us to recreate at home (keep scrolling), offering a taste of the creativity and precision that define Auberge du Soleil’s menus.
Let’s talk about the team - because they’re the heart of the place. When we arrived, Rick greeted us with a smile and insisted on carrying our bags. He’s been at Auberge du Soleil for over a decade and calls it the best job he’s ever had - because of the culture, the people and the way everyone’s cared for. At dinner, Michael was our host: warm, knowledgeable and deeply attuned. The kind of person you could spend hours with, glass of wine in hand, drifting from one conversation to the next. He’s been at Auberge du Soleil nearly twenty years and still speaks about his work with unmistakable passion and conviction.
Here, every encounter felt sincere. Every detail, considered. What stays with you is the sense that no one is simply doing a job — they’re part of something, and that something is rare.
Download the pdf to print if you plan on booking a trip!
When it comes to chefs whose food tells a story, Robert Curry’s name sits high on the list. As Executive Chef at Auberge du Soleil, Chef Robert Curry has crafted a style that feels both rooted and elevated — weaving the traditions of Californian and French cuisine into something uniquely his own. Curry brings a distinguished background shaped by working with culinary legends such as Alain Ducasse and Wolfgang Puck, along with a profound appreciation for Napa Valley’s seasonal bounty. Since taking the helm in 2005, Chef Robert Curry has infused his cuisine with a strong sense of place—an approach that has helped the restaurant maintain its Michelin star for an impressive seventeen consecutive years!
As you know, I have a sweet tooth, so I joined Executive Pastry Chef Paul Lemieux (below) in the Auberge du Soleil kitchen to work on the guest dessert recipe for this newsletter. I not only enjoyed seeing his creative process in the kitchen, but also his company — it was a pleasure to hear him speak about the seasons and local produce with a humble authority that comes from years of discipline and experience.
I had the chance to ask Paul a few questions about his day-to-day life in the kitchen, his favorite ingredients right now, and a little advice for those of us trying to bring just a touch of that Napa magic into our own kitchens.
Sarah: Was there a particular moment when you knew this chaotic, beautiful life in the kitchen was the one for you?
Paul: I started working in a kitchen when I was fifteen. Being so young, I’d often find myself in over my head and absolutely terrified — but I learned, overcame, and kept going. That cycle repeated throughout my career. You never stop. There’s always more to learn, more to perfect. It’s addictive, rewarding, and never boring.
Sarah: What ingredients are inspiring you most at this time of year? And what would you recommend home cooks make in May and June?
Paul: On the pastry side, we’re especially excited about rhubarb and strawberries — and our guests are always happy to see them on the menu. At home, I hope no one is missing out on English and snap peas, asparagus, artichokes, spring onions, and green garlic. They’re all perfect right now. It’s the ideal time for a spring veggie green primavera or a creamy artichoke carbonara.
Sarah: Love rhubarb! After a busy day at Auberge du Soleil, where do you like to unwind in Napa? Any local spots — restaurants, wine bars, or hidden gems — that have become go-tos for you over the years?
Paul: Fieldwork Brewing for a pint or two is a favorite. I also love the pepperoni pizza at Ciccio.
Sarah: Ciccio’s is the best! You’ve generously shared a guest recipe — could you tell us a bit about it and why you chose it?
Paul: A posset is one of those great recipes that’s really easy to make at home and works year-round. It pairs beautifully with fruits from every season, and it's also highly customizable — so the cook can really make it their own.
Sarah: And finally, if you could offer just one piece of advice to home cooks hoping to elevate their desserts, what would it be?
Paul: Taste everything — and not just at the end of the cooking process. Season your desserts with the same care and intention you would with savory dishes. Balance is key. Don’t get discouraged if it takes a few tries to get a dish right — that’s how you learn and develop your own style as a cook. Embrace the process, and most of all, enjoy it.
Sarah: Culinary icon?
Paul: Alain Ducasse
Sarah: Favorite cookbook?
Paul: Chocolate by Ramon Morato
Sarah: Most valuable piece of advice you’ve ever received ?
Paul: “A hungry cook is a stupid cook.” (lol)
Sarah: Most underrated ingredient used in pastry?
Paul: Free the tonka bean in the USA!
Executive Pastry Chef Paul Lemieux’s Simple Key Lime Posset
Serves 4 as a small dessert.
Ingredients:
8 oz heavy cream
40g caster sugar
1 oz key lime juice
Small pinch of salt
Directions:
In a small saucepan, bring the cream and sugar to a boil.
Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice and salt, then return to a boil briefly.
Pour into small ramekins or teacups.
Chill in the fridge until set — at least a few hours, ideally overnight.
A Good Table Recipe Notes
A posset is a traditional English dessert, made by gently curdling cream with citrus juice — luxuriously smooth, somewhere between a custard and a pudding, but far simpler to make.
Pair it with: A crumbly coconut shortbread or a vanilla sablé for texture and contrast.
Add: the zest of one lime for an extra hit of brightness.
Swap: the lime juice for lemon juice, orange juice, passion fruit pulp or a mixture of citrus juice.
Top with: A spoonful of softly whipped cream and a curl of lime zest.
Serve in: Mismatched espresso cups or vintage glassware, or in the skin of the lime.
To drink alongside: Something icy and not too sweet — a chilled glass of Lillet Blanc with a twist of lime, or a grassy Sauvignon Blanc.
Double the recipe: Make mini trifles: crumble a coconut biscuit into a small jar or elegant glass, spoon in the posset and repeat, top with dried coconut slivers and cream.
Just down the hill from the stillness of your terrace, a handful of nearby spots offer more than just wine — they offer glimpses into the valley’s past and present. Each one has a story, a particular mood, a way of slowing you down in the best possible way.
Faust Haus - Once a 19th-century Victorian home and later a roadhouse during Prohibition, this darkly romantic estate above St. Helena has been transformed into a moody, design-forward tasting room. It feels cinematic — all black-painted walls, vintage details, and brooding elegance. Their Cabernet Sauvignon is rich, structured, and powerful.
Turnbull Wine Cellar - A family-owned winery rooted in Oakville since 1979, Turnbull feels refreshingly unpolished in all the right ways. The original farmhouse now holds a tasting room and beautiful photography exhibitions. Their wines are thoughtfully made, expressive of place, and speak with grace and quiet confidence. A peaceful, grounded stop if you’re looking for depth without the grandeur.
Opus One - The result of a 1978 partnership between Napa’s Robert Mondavi and Bordeaux’s Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Opus One is both legacy and landmark. The winery itself is half modern sculpture, half quiet cathedral, and tastings here are serene and highly-curated. This is where you go when you want to understand Napa’s global ambition — each pour is polished, layered, and built to age. A tasing is worth booking in advance.
And for provisions…
Oakville Grocery has been feeding the valley since 1881. Stepping inside feels a bit like walking onto the set of a Nancy Meyers film — all charm and warm light. Tucked just off the main road, it’s perfect for grabbing a stacked sandwich, some local cheese, or a jar of something you didn’t know you needed until now. Ideal for a picnic between tastings or a casual supper on your patio as the sun slips behind the vines.
A heartfelt thank you to Auberge du Soleil and the team for a truly wonderful experience.
Yes free the Tonka bean!!! I am writing a story on this very topic. These wild ingredient taboos at the FDA boggle the mind. Also, happy birthday!!
Beautiful place. I have my birthday coming up sooo I’m thinking a rose lunch is a great gift to myself! 🥂